Updates to Cruising Guide to the Labrador.
S/V
Pilgrim, Brian Stewart and Jane Witherspoon
Whitby 42,
Double headsail ketch, LOA:42 feet, Beam:13 feet,
Draft: 5.5 feet, Disp: 17 tons
Ground
tackle: 65 lb CQR with 200 feet 3/8 BB chain, 22 lb Danforth
20 feet chain + 200 feet nylon rode. Spare anchors include 24 lb Danforth and a 42 lb CQR.
Name of
Harbour: Cartwright Harbour (C-15)
Anchorages
and/or Berths:
Anchor in
mud between the red navigation aid and moored boats. There is little current in
the harbour even with a 2-3 knot current in the entry channel. Less than 10 knots of wind
when we were anchored.
Public
wharf is unusable due to high commercial traffic. Marine centre is no longer
active but the wharf main side (south face) has one small ladder that makes
getting on and off difficult. Also used by commercial traffic. One space in the
U shaped fishing boat wharf that has reasonable ladder access.
Remarks:
Great place
to anchor or wharf but no water or power available. Wave and talk to the locals.
They are fabulous people if you make an effort.
Facilities: Public phone in the Northern Market. It also has boxed, frozen, and canned goods
of all descriptions. Poor
selection of fresh foods. All forms of alcohol with a reasonable wine
selection. They will deliver to the wharf. A real hardware
store. Hotel/Bar opens at 7pm and has WiFi
that can also be accessed from the picnic table by the door. Restaurant is closed but plans to reopen under
new management. Fuel is available at the road end of the old Marine centre
wharf. Fuel is brought out to the wharf with a tanker truck. The helicopters
get priority service.
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet access location: . Internet/WiFi
available at the School library and the local pub (see above)
Name of
Harbour: Curlew Harbour & Southeast
Cove, Isthmus Bay (C12 & 13)
Anchorages
and/or Berths:
Anchored in Curlew Harbour in rock and mud, depth 34 feet. 160 feet of chain
out. Holding not as secure as
indicated in guide, but less than 15 knots of wind, so not a good test of the
holding.
Tried to
gain access to Souteast Cove but we found a 10 foot
ledge at the entrance instead of the 18 feet mentioned on the chart and we were
at high water.
Remarks:
Facilities: One dwelling, no facilities
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet
access location: None
__________________________________________________________________________________
Name of
Harbour: Sandy Bay & Bateau Harbour
(B 139 + 140)
Anchorages
and/or Berths:
Sandy Bay –
Poor holding in the places mentioned in the guide with either CQR or Danforth. Sand with kelp in water less than 25 feet. We finally got a set further west in Sandy
Bay, but with wind gusts of 30 knots from the NW and severe chop made this
location uncomfortable.
Bateau
Harbour Outside – Immediate set with CQR in 30 knots from NW in 25 feet. When wind backed to South, we still held, but
the waves made the location uncomfortable.
A local resident suggested we move into the Inner harbour. Good holding in 14 feet, mud bottom. Very little chop in the Inner Harbour, even
with 25 knots of wind from the south.
Remarks: 4 fishermen still occupy 4
houses on the site, but are probably summer residents. Good background
reading: Our Life on Lear's Room, Labrador By
Greta Hussey. Greta tells her story of growing up spending the summers in
Bateau Harbour and the trip to and from her winter home in Newfoundland.
Facilities:
None. Wharf is unusable.
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet
access location: None
__________________________________________________________________________________
Name of
Harbour: Squasho
Run (B-108)
Anchorages
and/or Berths: None.
Remarks: A great motor or sail down a picturesque
channel.
Facilities: None.
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet
access location: None
__________________________________________________________________________________
Name of
Harbour: Hawke Harbour (B-105)
Anchorages
and/or Berths: Anchored in the small
pool by the rusted-out beached whalers. Black mud with a
great hold in 30 feet.
Remarks: Lots of bugs especially in the early evening. No evidence of habitation, although a few
dwellings were in good condition.
Facilities: None.
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet
access location: None
__________________________________________________________________________________
Name of
Harbour: Occasional Harbour (B76)
Anchorages
and/or Berths: Anchored in Arch Cove on
stone and mud I think. There was a lot of chain dragging over bare rock noise
and the bottom is very uneven (20 – 45 feet). CQR came up clean so I’m not sure
what we set on. Wind was less than 15
knots, so the ground tackle was not tested.
Remarks: Some bugs and very small fish. A small fish net
across the mouth of the bay does not prevent access or use of as much scope as
required. One of the most picturesque
anchorages we have been in. Settlement on north shore near French Cove. No evidence of local residents, but some of
the dwellings were in good condition.
There were a few dwellings on the south side of the fjord as well.
Facilities: None.
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet
access location: None
__________________________________________________________________________________
Name of
Harbour: Fox Harbour / St. Lewis (B-35)
Anchorages
and/or Berths: Tied up at the Fishing
Wharf since the facility had closed down mid July. When the facility is open (May 1 – mid-July)
there is water, power, showers and laundry facilities, but there also may not
be any space on the wharf.
Remarks: Lots of black flies when it was sunny. All establishments close from 12-1 and from
5-6 for lunch / dinner. Hours are not
posted; it is assumed anyone needing the post office, clinic or stores will
know the hours.
Facilities:
No power or water (showers, laundry) is
available during the plant shutdown period.
There is a clinic in St. Lewis. No
public phone. There is a Post Office.
There are 3
stores that sell basically the same stuff except one of the two in town sells
fuel. A left turn from the Wharf takes you into town and past 2 stores. At the
far end of the road is the school and library with internet (WiFi). A right turn from the wharf takes you to another
store (red roof), the trail to the old Pinetree Line
base and at the end of the road a lookout across the harbour.
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet
access location: There are 2 WiFi signals available at the wharf that
are open. They may work for you but I had limited success even with an
amplified antenna. The school has WiFi (see above under facilities)
Name of
Harbour: Battle Harbour (B-25)
Anchorages
and/or Berths: A visitors wharf is
slowly sagging at the outer edge where the ferry docks. There is a limited
amount of room available without rafting. The winds funnel through the harbour
and can make entry and exit a bit tricky.
Charge is
$.50 CDN per foot per night plus $9/person entrance fee to the island.
Remarks: This is a tourist harbour catering to people
arriving by ferry and staying at one of the guest houses. There is a $9 per
person entry fee which includes a worthwhile tour of the site. The general
store sells snack foods, a limited selection of wines and frozen meats and
gifts. The restaurant provides a fixed menu, BYOB, and must be prearranged at
the store. There is a lot to see and explore.
Facilities: 120 V / 15 amp power at the dock or from one
of the display buildings. Long extension cables are required. Water on the wharf, but boil water advisory
in effect in 2011. One
phone line for the entire island, with a courtesy phone in the General Store.
Showers ($5) and laundry machines (washer $1.25, dryer $2)
available at the dock.
Harbour
Authority? (email address): None
Internet access location: None