Updates to Cruising Guide to the Labrador.

S/V Pilgrim, Brian Stewart and Jane Witherspoon

Whitby 42, Double headsail ketch, LOA:42 feet, Beam:13 feet, Draft: 5.5 feet, Disp: 17 tons

Ground tackle: 65 lb CQR with 200 feet 3/8 BB chain, 22 lb Danforth 20 feet chain + 200 feet nylon rode. Spare anchors include 24 lb Danforth and a 42 lb CQR.

Name of Harbour: Cartwright Harbour (C-15)

Anchorages and/or Berths:

Anchor in mud between the red navigation aid and moored boats. There is little current in the harbour even with a 2-3 knot current in the entry channel. Less than 10 knots of wind when we were anchored.

Public wharf is unusable due to high commercial traffic. Marine centre is no longer active but the wharf main side (south face) has one small ladder that makes getting on and off difficult. Also used by commercial traffic. One space in the U shaped fishing boat wharf that has reasonable ladder access.

Remarks:

Great place to anchor or wharf but no water or power available. Wave and talk to the locals. They are fabulous people if you make an effort.

Facilities: Public phone in the Northern Market. It also has boxed, frozen, and canned goods of all descriptions. Poor selection of fresh foods. All forms of alcohol with a reasonable wine selection. They will deliver to the wharf. A real hardware store. Hotel/Bar opens at 7pm and has WiFi that can also be accessed from the picnic table by the door. Restaurant is closed but plans to reopen under new management. Fuel is available at the road end of the old Marine centre wharf. Fuel is brought out to the wharf with a tanker truck. The helicopters get priority service.

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: . Internet/WiFi available at the School library and the local pub (see above)

Name of Harbour: Curlew Harbour & Southeast Cove, Isthmus Bay (C12 & 13)

Anchorages and/or Berths:

Anchored in Curlew Harbour in rock and mud, depth 34 feet. 160 feet of chain out. Holding not as secure as indicated in guide, but less than 15 knots of wind, so not a good test of the holding.

Tried to gain access to Souteast Cove but we found a 10 foot ledge at the entrance instead of the 18 feet mentioned on the chart and we were at high water.

Remarks:

Facilities: One dwelling, no facilities

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: None

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Name of Harbour: Sandy Bay & Bateau Harbour (B 139 + 140)

Anchorages and/or Berths:

Sandy Bay Poor holding in the places mentioned in the guide with either CQR or Danforth. Sand with kelp in water less than 25 feet. We finally got a set further west in Sandy Bay, but with wind gusts of 30 knots from the NW and severe chop made this location uncomfortable.

Bateau Harbour Outside Immediate set with CQR in 30 knots from NW in 25 feet. When wind backed to South, we still held, but the waves made the location uncomfortable. A local resident suggested we move into the Inner harbour. Good holding in 14 feet, mud bottom. Very little chop in the Inner Harbour, even with 25 knots of wind from the south.

Remarks:  4 fishermen still occupy 4 houses on the site, but are probably summer residents.  Good background reading:  Our Life on Lear's Room, Labrador By Greta Hussey.  Greta tells her story of growing up spending the summers in Bateau Harbour and the trip to and from her winter home in Newfoundland.

 

Facilities: None. Wharf is unusable.

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: None

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Name of Harbour: Squasho Run (B-108)

Anchorages and/or Berths: None.

Remarks: A great motor or sail down a picturesque channel.

Facilities: None.

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: None

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Name of Harbour: Hawke Harbour (B-105)

Anchorages and/or Berths: Anchored in the small pool by the rusted-out beached whalers. Black mud with a great hold in 30 feet.

Remarks: Lots of bugs especially in the early evening. No evidence of habitation, although a few dwellings were in good condition.

Facilities: None.

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: None

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Name of Harbour: Occasional Harbour (B76)

Anchorages and/or Berths: Anchored in Arch Cove on stone and mud I think. There was a lot of chain dragging over bare rock noise and the bottom is very uneven (20 45 feet). CQR came up clean so Im not sure what we set on. Wind was less than 15 knots, so the ground tackle was not tested.

Remarks: Some bugs and very small fish. A small fish net across the mouth of the bay does not prevent access or use of as much scope as required. One of the most picturesque anchorages we have been in. Settlement on north shore near French Cove. No evidence of local residents, but some of the dwellings were in good condition. There were a few dwellings on the south side of the fjord as well.

Facilities: None.

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: None

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Name of Harbour: Fox Harbour / St. Lewis (B-35)

Anchorages and/or Berths: Tied up at the Fishing Wharf since the facility had closed down mid July. When the facility is open (May 1 mid-July) there is water, power, showers and laundry facilities, but there also may not be any space on the wharf.

Remarks: Lots of black flies when it was sunny. All establishments close from 12-1 and from 5-6 for lunch / dinner. Hours are not posted; it is assumed anyone needing the post office, clinic or stores will know the hours.

Facilities: No power or water (showers, laundry) is available during the plant shutdown period. There is a clinic in St. Lewis. No public phone. There is a Post Office.

There are 3 stores that sell basically the same stuff except one of the two in town sells fuel. A left turn from the Wharf takes you into town and past 2 stores. At the far end of the road is the school and library with internet (WiFi). A right turn from the wharf takes you to another store (red roof), the trail to the old Pinetree Line base and at the end of the road a lookout across the harbour.

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: There are 2 WiFi signals available at the wharf that are open. They may work for you but I had limited success even with an amplified antenna. The school has WiFi (see above under facilities)

 

Name of Harbour: Battle Harbour (B-25)

Anchorages and/or Berths: A visitors wharf is slowly sagging at the outer edge where the ferry docks. There is a limited amount of room available without rafting. The winds funnel through the harbour and can make entry and exit a bit tricky.

Charge is $.50 CDN per foot per night plus $9/person entrance fee to the island.

Remarks: This is a tourist harbour catering to people arriving by ferry and staying at one of the guest houses. There is a $9 per person entry fee which includes a worthwhile tour of the site. The general store sells snack foods, a limited selection of wines and frozen meats and gifts. The restaurant provides a fixed menu, BYOB, and must be prearranged at the store. There is a lot to see and explore.

Facilities: 120 V / 15 amp power at the dock or from one of the display buildings. Long extension cables are required. Water on the wharf, but boil water advisory in effect in 2011. One phone line for the entire island, with a courtesy phone in the General Store. Showers ($5) and laundry machines (washer $1.25, dryer $2) available at the dock.

Harbour Authority? (email address): None

Internet access location: None